New York dining Dubai-style at Fire & Ice

It's been a looooong time since I've been to Fire & Ice - I'm talking years. And that's years in the surprised way we UAE veterans tot up a time frame. (Sample conv: "How long have you been in Dubai now?" "Well, it's been, erm… oh, wow, seven years! How did that happen?") You know what I'm talking about… But I was happy to note that it hasn't lost that Manhattan vibe - high ceilings, exposed brickwork and laidback clientele - that I loved about the place the first time. And with a new menu to boast about, as well as the monthly, fortnight-long special menus they're introducing, it was high time I high-tailed it back to Dubai's Lower East Side. With a play on the classics as well as the introduction of new dishes, the selection of starters is concise to the point of brusque - something anyone who's flipped through page after page of too-much-going-on will appreciate. The Fire & Ice prawn came with a cucumber, mint and Stilton crumble and comprised a meaty portion of seafood, with just enough accompaniments to add excitement without overwhelming. We also opted for the Pan-seared foie gras with a flavour-packed pear and shallot chutney, date gastrique and ginger bread, the bread the perfect anchor for a foie gras so light it would have flown off the tongue had it not melted there first. Those who like to keep things a little more traditional will find comfort in the Cannellini veloute of porcini mushroom and tomato shaker; while adventurous types will have fun with the Maine scallops with Persian feta. The choice of mains reflects the thought processes it must have taken to whittle the starter selection down to 10 well-chosen options, there are no fillers here. And those who like their food chic-yet-hearty will find this in the Brittany lemon sole, Mulwarra lamb shank or Quebec veal chop. For me, the standout was the dish I ordered (naturally), the Pacific big eye tuna, which arrived languishing in a horseradish broth, and was - this is coming from a tuna addict - absolutely brilliant. Tuna in a broth? As a tuna purist, the ‘euw!' in my head, turned to an ‘ahhh' on my tongue. The husband, being a boy and stuff, went for the Australian rib eye. There are 15 steaks on offer, and you'll find Australian and USA imports, including Australian Wagyu marble 5 and Stockyard USA Angus prime options. Choose between adding a rub or a sauce, before choosing your sides, which all come in at a reasonable Dh25-a-pop. The Rosemary-scented mash is a must, so creamy, so buttery, so many calories; while the Goat's cheese gnocchi and Caramelised onions are inspired. For dessert, we went sweet with a Rhubarb and blackberry crumble, topped with crunchy oats and brown sugar - just like grandma used to make - accompanied by vanilla pod-heavy custard; and the Canadian maple pecan pie, which you just know the chef makes to stave off homesickness. Need to know Restaurant Fire & Ice Location Raffles Dubai Tel 04 324 8888 Tasty trio: New York-style dining Circle Café The interiors and the food are fresh here, and it all began when its two owners were lucky enough to be in Manhattan enjoying a bagel. “Why can’t we get these in Dubai?” they thought, and so took action and began to ship New York’s famous H&H bagels to Dubai. Our favourite is the Caprese, oh and the bagel chips are pretty fine. Those in the capital will soon be able to eat the boiled bread sensation – our sources tell us there’s a Circle opening there this spring. Location Dubai Media City and Jumeirah Beach Park Plaza, Dubai Timing Daily 8am-9pm (Jumeirah) Tel 04 342 8177 Manhattan Grill Not only does this steakhouse boast an amazing wine list, one of the best business lunches in town and top-notch service, but sitting in its unpretentious and classy art deco interior, you will genuinely feel like you’re in Downtown Manhattan. Don’t leave Dubai before you’ve tried the crab cakes, the Oreo cheesecake, oh and, of course, a good ol’ hunk of tenderloin! Location Grand Hyatt, Oud Metha, Dubai Timing Daily 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-11.30pm Tel 04 317 2222 West 14th Head here about half an hour before your booking so you can enjoy a drink at the cute outside beachside bar (you don’t get that in Manhattan). Once seated, most definitely order something from the steak selection – your waiter will talk you through it. This is a lively spot, and it’s made all the more atmospheric thanks to live music: the soul singer could put Jill Scott to shame. You’ll walk out feeling very New ‘Yoik’. Locaton Oceana Beach Club, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai Timing Daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel 04 447 7601